Fred Beckey

Fred Beckey (born Wolfgang Beckey, 14 January 1923) is an American mountaineer and author, who has made hundreds of first ascents, more than any other North American climber.^[1]

1 Early years
2 Guidebook author
3 Recent accomplishments
4 First ascents
5 Other notable ascents
6 Quotation
7 Personality
8 Books
9 See also
10 References
11 External links

Early years

"Beckey," as he is known to his climbing companions, was born near Cologne, Germany, and his family emigrated to the United States when he was three, ending up in Seattle, Washington. He started climbing in the North Cascades as a teenager, learning the basic concepts from The Mountaineers but quickly going on to harder climbs.

He attended the University of Washington and received a degree in business administration. He worked as a delivery truck driver, which left him time for climbing.

Unlike Jim Whittaker, a fellow Seattleite and the first American to reach the top of Mount Everest in 1963, Beckey shied away from the large team efforts, preferring smaller alpine-style undertakings. Beckey seemed a likely choice as a member for the large, 1963 American Everest Expedition, but he was not chosen, even though he had been to Lhotse in 1955 with the International Himalayan Expedition.^[2]

Guidebook author

In the late 1940s, he asked The Mountaineers of Seattle to publish his first climbing guidebook for the local peaks. They turned him down, and the American Alpine Club agreed to print a few thousand copies for a flat fee. Between climbs, he has written several books, most notably the Cascade Alpine Guide, the definitive 3-volume description of the North Cascades from the Columbia River to the Fraser River, now in its third edition, published by The Mountaineers.

Recent accomplishments

In 2003, his 563-page book on the history of the region, Range of Glaciers, was published by the Oregon Historical Society Press. According to a reviewer, he did much of the research for the volume in Washington, D.C., at the Library of Congress and the National Archives, scouring files of the State Department, U.S. Geological Survey and other agencies. Beckey also perused the Canadian archives in Ottawa; Hudson's Bay Co. archives in Winnipeg; British Columbia archives in Victoria; records of the Northwest Boundary Survey at Yale University; and records of the Northern Pacific and Great Northern railroads in Minneapolis.

As of November, 2010, he continues to climb.

Mt. Beckey, named for Fred, is located in the Alaska Range at North 62 degrees, 52 minutes, West 152 degrees, 15 minutes.

First ascents

Some of his first ascents:

1940 Forbidden Peak, North Cascades - with brother Helmy, Lloyd Anderson, Jim Crooks, and Dave Lind.
1945 Price Glacier, Mount Shuksan, North Cascades with Jack Schwabland and Bill Granston^[3]
1946 East Ridge Devils Thumb, Alaska with Bob Craig and Clifford Schmidtke (Aug 25)^[4]
1947 North Peak, Liberty Bell, North Cascades - 1947
1948 North Ridge of Mount Baker, North Cascades Fred Beckey, Ralph and Dick Widrig (August 1948)^[5]
1954 Northwest Buttress to North Peak, Mount McKinley, Alaska (May 27) with Donald McLean, Charles Wilson, Henry Meybohm and Bill Hackett.^[6]
1954 Mount Deborah with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm^[7]
1954 West Ridge Mount Hunter (Alaska) - with Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm^[8]
1959 Yocum Ridge, Mount Hood, Oregon, USA with Leo Scheiblehner^[9]
1961 North Face of Mount Edith Cavell, Canadian Rockies, Canada with Yvon Chouinard^[10]
1961 Beckey-Chouinard Route on South Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Canada with Yvon Chouinard and Dan Doody ^[11]
1963 Complete North Ridge, Mount Stuart, North Cascades, Washington, USA with Steve Marts^[12]
1963 Northeast Buttress of Mount Slesse, British Columbia, Canada with Steve Marts and Eric Bjornstad^[13]
1963 West Buttress (IV 5.8 A1), Musembeah Peak, Wind River Range, Wyoming, USA (September) with Layton Kor^[14]
1967 El Matador (NCCS IV, A3), Devils Tower, WY. FA with Eric Bjornstad^[15]
1968 Direct East Buttress (IV F8 A4), South Early Winter Spire, North Cascades, WA. FA with Doug Leen^[16]
1968 South Face (III F8 A1), Cathedral Peak (Okanogan), North Cascades, WA. FA with Dave Wagner, John Brottem and Doug Leen^[17]
1968 Northeast Face, Mount Hooker, Canadian Rockies, Canada. FA with John Rupley^[18]
1970 Beckey's Spire aka Christianity Spire, Sedona AZ
1996 Mount Beckey, Cathedral Mountains, Alaska, USA - 1996, with John Middendorf and Calvin Hebert

Other notable ascents

Second ascent Mount Waddington, British Columbia - 1942
Triple ascent of Mount McKinley, Mount Deborah, and Mount Hunter - 1954

Quotation

"Fred Beckey has achieved enduring recognition as the most imaginative, persistent, and thorough explorer and mountain investigator of the Cascade Range Wilderness. He was noted as "one of America's most colorful and eccentric mountaineers," and is unofficially recognized as the all-time world-record holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. In addition to being the author of the Cascade Alpine Guide series, Beckey is also the author of Mountains of North America, The Range of Glaciers: Exploration and Survey of the North Cascades, and a personal narrative, Challenge of the North Cascades."
--Mountaineers Books

Personality

Timothy Egan captures Fred Beckey's personality in a chapter of "The Good Rain". Fred named Vasiliki Ridge, by Washington Pass, after his one true love. Fred is a quintessential dirtbag climber, and there is a classic portrait of him holding a sign "Will belay for food." His reputation is well-known among many climbers, captured in a t-shirt "Beware of Beckey: He will Steal your woman, steal your route." ^[19]

Books

Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs (Patagonia Inc., 2011, ISBN 978-0-98012-271-8)
Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range (Oregon Historical Society, 2003 ISBN 0-87595-243-7)
Cascade Alpine Guide (3 vols.) (Mountaineers Books, 1973–2008)
- Columbia River to Stevens Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2000, ISBN 0-89886-577-8)
- Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2003, ISBN 0-89886-152-7)
- Rainy Pass to Fraser River (1981, 3rd ed. 2008, ISBN 0-89886-423-2)
Challenge of the North Cascades (1969, 2nd ed. 1996, ISBN 0-89886-479-8)
Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America (Mountaineers Books 1993, paper 1999, ISBN 0-89886-646-4)
The Bugaboos: An Alpine History (1987) (Introduction Only)
Mountains of North America (1986)
Mountains of North America (Sierra Club, 1982)
Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide (Mountaineers Books, 1976)
Guide to Leavenworth rock-climbing areas (Mountaineers Books, 1965)
Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington (American Alpine Club, 1949, revised edition 1953)

References

^ Modie, Neil (2003-03-08). "Icon to some, legendary climber Beckey still obscure to many". Seattle Post-Intelligencer (Seattle PI). http://www.seattlepi.com/local/111703_beckey08.shtml. Retrieved 2006-01-07.
^ "Solu Khumbu Climbs: First Ascents After Lhotse". American Alpine Journal, 1956 10 (2): 7.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 138. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 139. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 156. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 166. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 169–170. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 170. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 172. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Child, Greg (October 2000). "Rock Legends". Outside Magazine. http://outside.away.com/outside/magazine/200010/200010rocklegends1.html. Retrieved 2006-10-04.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 152–153. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 226. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 226–227. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. pp. 245. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.
^ Beckey, Fred; H. Adams Carter (editor) (1969). "Climbs and Expeditions". American Alpine Journal 1969 (Philadelphia, PA, USA: American Alpine Club) 16 (43): 403.
^ Beckey, Fred; H. Adams Carter (editor) (1969). "Climbs and Expeditions". American Alpine Journal 1969 (Philadelphia, PA, USA: American Alpine Club) 16 (43): 387–388.
^ Beckey, Fred; H. Adams Carter (editor) (1969). "Climbs and Expeditions". American Alpine Journal 1969 (Philadelphia, PA, USA: American Alpine Club) 16 (43): 390.
^ Beckey, Fred; H. Adams Carter (editor) (1969). "Climbs and Expeditions". American Alpine Journal 1969 (Philadelphia, PA, USA: American Alpine Club) 16 (43): 410.
^ Egan, Timothy (1991). The Good Rain. ISBN 0-67973-485-6.

External links

Biography at HistoryLink
New York Times, 16 Dec. 2008. The Old Man of the Mountains. Video report on Fred Beckey. (The video displays the date of Dec. 16, although the URL states Dec. 15.)

Persondata
Name	Beckey, Fred
Alternative names
Short description
Date of birth	1923-01-14
Place of birth
Date of death
Place of death